Description
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WOOLWAX is a lanolin based auto / truck undercoating made from raw woolgrease. WOOLWAX has almost no smell. The wool grease odor has been neutralized by a proprietary additive. WOOLWAX sprays on wet and does not dry. WOOLWAX creates a wet thin lanolin film barrier to keep moisture and oxygen away from the base metal. * Solvent free. Environmentally friendly. * Always active and creeping into inaccessible areas. WOOLWAX will thicken to a film after applied and is very resistant to wash off. * Provides vehicle undercarriage protection for a full season. * Enclosed areas (doors, frame-rails, rocker-panels, etc., that are not exposed to road-wash will be protected indefinitely (years). This is the advantage of no solvents. There is nothing to dry up and evaporate. WOOLWAX is a non-drip formula. We make it to be as thick as possible to resist wash-off, yet still easily sprayable. WOOLWAX can be applied with most undercoating guns using a pressure of 70-90 psi. Proudly manufactured in U.S.A. WOOLWAX lanolin undercoating is formulated to be more resistant to wash-off. Woolwax does not dry. It goes on wet and stays wet so that it is self-healing and always active. Will provide protection for up to 2 years. The enclosed protected areas (doors, framerails, rockers, etc.) are protected indefinitely. Woolwax will creep and migrate into all the pincj welds and seams of the metal. There is no need to use a thinner product that leave very little surface build and will not protect as well. On enclosed areas surface build is everything. Thin formulas will creep and the surface build gets thinner and thinner all along the way until the coating is so thin, there is almost no surface build to provide protection. Bottom line…. original thick Woolwax (or any viscous coating) will provide better protection for enclosed areas (frame rails, etc.) than thin formulas that leave a very thin surface build.




crazylare –
If you want a permanent solution for stopping rust this is what you need! This stuff goes on without strong odor and washes off your hands easily, but stains your clothes so wear something you don’t care about. The clear is hard to see and if you are spraying it over rust you’ll still see the rust, the black works better for that. As with anything the better you do the job the longer it will work. It will creep into pinch welds and other places that moisture gets and seals it up. I would never ever get any type of undercoating that hardens up to stop rust or seal against rust. The type like the rustproofing places uses goes on over anything that is on the metal and will seal in the moisture and dirt and when it gets hard it peels off and the rust is way worse than before it was coated in the first place. I will tell you that if you think that 3 quarts of black and 1 quart of clear will do the job, order extra and save yourself the waiting time for the next gallon to come. I used 2 gallons of black and 2 quarts of clear to do my 2000 F150 and I just got one more gallon to do the areas that I didn’t have enough to do, I’ll be taking out my taillights and spraying everything in that area, and my front fenders where the front door hinges are. So just order about double what they tell you and have enough to do a re-coat later if you don’t use it all. I hope this helps!
Matt B –
I’ve been using Fluid Film and that’s a good product. This year we did one truck with Woolwax and another truck with New Hampshire Oil Undercoat and wow what a difference. The Woolwax stays in place. The New Hampshire oil is super runny and a lot of it dripped off the truck after a few days.Bottom line, I like the Woolwax the best because it stays in place like the Fluid Film but it doesn’t smell as bad as the Fluid Film. Either way, the smell goes away in a few days.
J. Diamond –
Employing Woolwax undercoating, with Woolwax’s gun and an air compressor, I was able to do my F250 by myself. Once you figure out the nozzle, the undercoating goes on consistently without any harsh chemical smells, drips, or splash back. I was worried that I need a ground cover, but the undercoating stays where it is sprayed. Don’t read too much into the pictures, I recognize that I missed spots. Getting a little long in the tooth to be crawling under vehicles, but I think I got the spots that mattered. I’ll add that 1 Gallon was sufficient for a light coat on my truck. I didn’t coat every inch, but I hit the frame pretty well, and body seams. I’ve got a solid quart left.
Customer –
This product worked perfectly for undercoating my 2006 Toyota tundra. It went on easy and did not drip much at all. I recommend buying the wool wax gun to apply. I applied a heavy coat and used less that 1 gallon.
brian henricksen –
Great price for what it provides, Stops the rust and makes everything look better knowing it works
Countyline –
I used this to coat my 4Runner chassis inside and out. The smell wasn’t bad at all. Overall very pleased with the black since it is easier to tell where you sprayed. Buy the wool wax gun, it works well. I heated up a pot of water and kept the bottles in hot water until I was ready to spray. Also I’m glad the company switched to plastic jugs instead of metal cans
Igor Pivovarchuk –
So far so good. After a month it’s still there and looks grease. Only time will tell, after 1 year if does the job.
Waxman 1 –
The ease of spraying was what I liked the most. I’ll be selling this concept to other customers in the future.
Flybin –
Produit is a little messy but we’ll see how it holds up on the long term.
Derrick –
Exactly what I wanted and the new bottle is alot better for pouring
MP –
This stuff I chose bc it’s black. Makes the little rust I had look better. I applied it with a paint brush. Works good but takes forever. I’m going to keep using this stuff but with a spray gun next spring. Seems to be holding up well. I think I used half a jug for my truck. Will buy again once I run out.
bob444 –
Used a full gallon on my car. Was able to do all 4 wheel wells very thoroughly AND spray 90% of the underside with 1 gallon.