Description
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Specifications:
Carburetor For K241 K301 10HP 12HP Cast Iron Engines #26 Carb Cub Cadet Replacement 47 853 23-S This carburetor replaces for the Carter
Material: Aluminum
Quantity: 1 Set
Package:1*carburetor, 1*screw, 1*kit
Fitment:
For K241 K301 10HP 12HP Cast Iron Engines
This is High Quality Aftermarket
Note:
1.We provide clear pictures, measurements where possible. Please check as much as possible to make sure the item is the one that you need.
2.Please allow 0.5-1 inch difference due to manual measurement. (1inch=2.54cm)
3.There Are No Instructions Included In This Kit. Professional Installation Is Highly Recommended!
4.The color of the actual items may slightly different from the listing images due to different computer screen, thanks for your understanding.
Vehicle information
Available fitment details
Listing compatibility notes
- About this item Package Included:1*carburetor, 1*screw, 1*kit Part Part Number: 47-853-23-S, 47 853 23-S Fit for K241 K301 ,M10 M12,10HP 12HP Cat Iron Engines Replaces the Carter Number 26 Carburetor.
- 54cm) Specifications: Carburetor For K241 K301 10HP 12HP Cast Iron Engines #26 Carb Cub Cadet Replacement 47 853 23-S This carburetor replaces for the Carter Material: Aluminum Quantity: 1 Set Package:1*carburetor, 1*screw, 1*kit Fitment: For K241 K301 10HP 12HP Cast Iron Engines This is High Quality Aftermarket Note: 1.
Fitment data is provided as a buying aid. Verify the listing against your vehicle and existing part before ordering.
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- Verify the referenced part number: 47-853-23-S.
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Customer feedback
Ratings and written reviews
4.3 / 5
537 source ratings
Source: Amazon. Imported marketplace feedback is shown for product research and is not a review of a purchase made on this website.
Sorrey –
I received the product and it came with a second choke shaft with a different connection point. The rest of the linkage was as shown. Very satisfied and would buy again.
RO Review –
This was supposed to work for a Toro Wheel Horse Classic with Koholer 10HP engine and most likely would have had I been able to bolt it in place. The design of the carb places obstructions in front of your bolt heads. Given the various motor obstructions it was near impossible to tighten this down. I would have needed some type of articulating crescent wrench in order to accomplish this. The original pulled carb is shown as a comparison where you can see the bolt area is fairly open. Trying to get any meaningful purchase on this bolt head to tighten was impossible, so back for a look at more carb’s.
Réal Gagné –
Le contrôle de la soupape de l’étrangleur était inversé
Chase hinze –
Didn’t fix my problem, but it did work good.
Sandra justice –
Worked easy to install great price would buy again
Vitor Butzke –
Everything worked great besides the wrong governor lever which I reused the old one. This carb comes with a base adjustment and will require small adjustment to run perfectly; for the price, you cannot go wrong.
Blackhorse –
Thankfully. There’s nothing more frustrating than an engine that won’t even start.Kohler 10 hp cast iron engine on a 60 year old International Harvester Cub Cadet. The throttle butterfly on the old carb was worn beyond repair.This one looks just exactly like the original. But make no mistake, it is metric at it’s heart. You WILL use the fuel barb that comes with it, if you have a metal fuel line you will have to replace it with fuel hose and a new barb for your fuel tank. Your old SAE threads will not screw into the new carb. You WILL use one of the 2 choke shafts provided, your old SAE one will not fit the bore. Oh and the tiny screws on the choke butterfly have thread-lock on them. To un-do thread-lock GENTLY heat (like 5 seconds with the lowest flame you can get on a propane torch).The setting screw on top is the high-speed setting. The one on the side near the throttle lever is the low speed setting.Like the chainsaw book says, “Don’t set the mixture by the sound, set it by the performance”. Set the idle speed where you want it. Then set the idle mixture so that you don’t see a tiny black puff with each exhaust stroke, the exhaust should be invisible. View against a white background with good lighting. Too rich, your plug will foul. If the engine dies when you gently increase the throttle, set it a bit richer. Like a quarter turn at a time. I arrived at about 1 1/4 turns out. Your results may vary.Set the high speed mixture so that the engine doesn’t die when you engage load (mower blades, high grass). Too rich the engine may surge, gallop, not run at a steady speed. Best setting is likely just the tiniest bit of surge, and recovers quickly when you add load. If you can’t get smooth running and good load response you may have to change the governor spring setting (oh gawd), esp if it’s been changed to try to get your old carb to work right. I arrived at about 3 turns out. Your results may vary, esp if you have a newer engine with some emissions features.And oh yes, your existing block screws and air cleaner screws will fit. And I just added the new gasket over the old one instead of spending 2 hours scraping….
Rayk7 –
Works great on my John Deere garden tractor.
Jeremy kishbaugh –
Carb for wheelhorse lawnmower, had to modify linkages to make work, starts and idles ok but that’s it, adjusted to the best of my ability, small engine repair is my job, running way to rich feel like parts are missing inside
Joshua Zent –
Direct bolt on replacement no issues installing and it came with all the necessary hardware and gaskets. Started right up. Thanks for the great service.
Muddy Ole Goat –
the old carb was pouring out the gas. I installed the new one without adjusting a thing, worked like a charm right away on a Case 442 garden tractor
Dean E Eganhouse –
Installed and worked asdesigned
matt –
Bought as a replacement for a rusty old cubcadet with the 12hp kohler. It bolted right up and came with all the necessary pieces to install. Very little adjustment was needed and that old tractor of mine that hadent ran in years was back full of life. For a cheap carb works very well.