Description
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Specs:
Description: Oil Seal
Replaces OEM Numbers:
Kohler: 25 032 06-S, 52 032 08-S
Compatible With/Replacement For:
Kohler: CH18, CH20, CH22, CH23, CH25, CH620 and CH640
Vehicle information
Available fitment details
Listing compatibility notes
- 045 kilograms **Verify part fits before purchasing** Specs: Description: Oil Seal Replaces OEM Numbers: Kohler: 25 032 06-S, 52 032 08-S Compatible With/Replacement For: Kohler: CH18, CH20, CH22, CH23, CH25, CH620 and CH640
Fitment data is provided as a buying aid. Verify the listing against your vehicle and existing part before ordering.
Package contents, delivery, returns, inventory, and buying trust
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Package contents
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Before you buy
- Compare the listing title, photos, package contents, and specifications with the part being replaced.
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Customer feedback
Ratings and written reviews
4.7 / 5
204 source ratings
Source: Amazon. Imported marketplace feedback is shown for product research and is not a review of a purchase made on this website.
SAM Jr. –
Easy to install, no more oil leak. I’m glad It was as simple as it was and it wasn’t necessary to open up the engine in order to fix the problem.
Greg wolford –
All was good. Correct size and easy to find.
John Underwood –
Fit perfectly, Added engine assembly lube to protect until it gets broken in.
Jethro –
Way overpriced
Brad Boyd –
Perfect seal for my Kawasaki SP23. Use a piece of PVC or a block of wood for install. Fixed a problem that would have cost hundreds to fix at my local shop.
William R. –
Very good manufacturer and OEM parts are the only way to go .
Customer –
Perfect fit, no leaks…. Life is Good
RadiologyKen –
My tractor was leaking oil but the heads were clean. So I googled the symptom and I kept seeing people mentioning the main seal. I’m a weekend mechanic and I figured if I can’t fix it, I’d pony up the money for a new tractor. I ordered this and watched several videos on how to change. Seems straight forward and it was*. My issue with the whole change came with the hole in the frame on the videos. I tried for a LONG time to get this sucker out without having to take the engine off. In the end I did. As a word of caution, I put a screw into the seal and even though I drained all the oil, more came out. One it stopped (I left it to drain overnight) I felt comfortable turning the tractor on it’s side. I supported the engine and took off the 4 bolts. Once it was free of the frame, swapping the seal was much easier. I didn’t want to go this route, but it worked. 2 screws on opposite ends of the OLD seal and I worked it out. MAKE SURE NOT TO DAMAGE THE SHAFT OR THE OIL WILL LEAK THROUGH THE NEW SEAL AND THE PIT YOU CREATED ON THE SHAFT. New seal goes in but the suggestion I have is to get a small PVC pipe from the store (I think it’s 2 1/4) and use that to tap the seal in place. It will evenly distribute the taps of the hammer. I used some gasket maker around the OUTER edges of the seal to provide extra seal. CLEAN the opening before putting the seal on.
Tomstew6 –
Got the product good time it works great
David Pirdavid –
Good product works good
Paul Gagné –
Good